RMR January 2012 Article - Mules in Germany by Terry Steiner and Bonnie Shields

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Mules in Germany

By Terry Steiner and Bonnie Shields, Sandpoint , Idaho

January 2012 issue

Bishop, California , touts itself as the “Mule Capitol of the World,” and each Memorial Day Weekend it truly is. Top competitors in mule events come from all over North America to Bishop Mule Days, and visitors show up from many overseas nations.

Several years ago, Bonnie struck up an acquaintance with two visitors from Honerath , Germany — Hanno and Dagmar Pilartz. We received a standing invitation to visit them in Germany , where we could ride mules in the green rolling hills of their Eifel District.

Dagmar, Bonnie, Terry, and Hanno at the gate of the ruins of Nurburg Castle (1169 AD).

So, in June 2010, we took them up on their offer.

Hanno is employed in international banking and Dagmar works in personnel for Lufthansa Airlines. German employers provide a lot of flex time, so both work only three times per week, 10- to 12-hour days.

This schedule allows them to operate their equine hostel in Honerath. They have a couple of guest houses in addition to rooms in their 250-year-old, and very German, inn.

Hanno and Dagmar are very much into the American cowboy ways. Hanno told us he sometimes takes a teasing for wearing his Wranglers, wild rags, boots and hat to work. He is especially enamored of the culture of the high desert buckaroo, while Dagmar just simply loves her donkeys and mules. They have three mules, two donkeys and several horses of all description. Of the twelve days we spent there, six were spent in the saddle.

The two mules we rode were half-sisters; one out of a PB Fjord mare and the other out of a Fjord–Quarter Horse mare. They were quite impressive. The mules were trained to handle either experienced or helpless riders, and they both had smooth ways of going.

Terry’s mule was Jule (pronounced “Eula”) and had a running walk akin to a Paso. We would have gladly smuggled her home to Idaho .

Germany is a great place to ride due to the fence lines being set back two meters from property lines. This creates lanes that are twelve-feet wide and only farm vehicles and non-motorized travel is allowed in the lanes. Hikers, equestrians and cross-country skiers have almost unlimited access to the countryside. The Eifel District is one of the best hunting areas in Germany , with deer, elk, wild boar, and lots of fox and rabbit. We saw wildlife on every ride.

Castles are everywhere. We visited several and even rode through the gates of Nurberg Castle our first day.

The Castle Eltz (1157 AD) where Terry and Bonnie saw a portrait of Terry as the 21st Earl of Eltz.

At Castle Eltz, which looks like it belongs in Disney’s Fantasyland, Terry found his portrait hanging in their gallery of past barons. It wasn’t just kinda like Terry — it was Terry!

Terry riding mule, Jule (pronounced “Eula”), following Dagmar through the very green Eifel countryside.

He found it strange to be peering at himself from 200 years past. Maybe there is something to this reincarnation, after all! (However, please refrain from addressing him as “Baron Steiner” or “My Lord.” …Please!!)

This was the trip of a lifetime for us, and we met some absolutely great characters! Willy, the incredible village blacksmith who, by hand, produces Damascus steel knives and objects d’art.

Terry and a sweet Poitou foal.

Harry, the self-appointed “sheriff of the Eifel ,” has an arch over the entrance to his place which reads “Rodeo Ranch” and welcomes you to an astounding collection of his inventions to make his life easier off the grid. He’s a “Rube Goldberg Germany” and a happier 82-year-old fella you will never meet.

We also met Helmut, who owned the mammoth jack our mules were sired by. This fella has his own private museum which is full of WWI and WWII equine military equipment. He seemed to be deaf to “no more” when it came to re-filling our shotglasses with Schnapps!

The Pilartz’s are absolutely wonderful people and they can handle Americans just fine… even ones who insist on riding mules. For more information, visit their website: www.hofhonerath.de.

Bonnie, on her new mule, Buddy, and Terry, riding back in Idaho .

This article was reprinted with permission of its authors. It first appeared in Mules & More Magazine, Dec. 2010.

Bonnie Shields, the Tennessee Mule Artist, creates a wide variety of artwork: from paintings and sculptures to T-shirts and notecards. These are available through her website: www.bonnieshields.com

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